best italian london

40-41 Rathbone Place, London W1. Andrew and Ninai Zarach, who used to rootle around for top-notch Italian ingredients to import, own the two Manicomio restaurants in Chelsea and St Paul's - scenes of many a button-popping, expense-account lunch. Looking to expand your search outside of London? In the buzzing and cosy ground-floor restaurant order a selection of herby meatballs (there's also a veggie option), creamy buffalo-mozzarella pizzette and nicely spiced crab and chilli linguine or a delicious dish of squash, gnocchi, blue cheese and walnuts. Yes, this is a restaurant that serves its diners decadence before they’ve even picked up the menu, but it’s most certainly not a case of style over substance. Even better was the pheasant, rabbit and pork agnoli – little punchy parcels of pleasure in a slick and sexy sauce that would reduce Giorgio Locatelli to tears of joy. Older sister to Borough Market’s Padella, Trullo serves perfect pasta, antipasti and larger charcoal grill dishes in a romantic yet relaxed environment.

For hungrier/greedier guests, the mozzarella, nduja and honey sandwich is almost Elvis-like in its gastronomic indulgence. In the bathrooms, marble and gold furnishings ensure that the Bocconcino experience never wavers. Our advice is to order a few dishes and share them with your dining partner. Go for a carafe of the Sicilian house white, which is a lemony Pieno Sud, or a beer from local brewery Wolfpack, and make a mental note to return for breakfast, served on weekdays.

Puddings include home-made ice cream or almond and olive-oil cake. Yet still the dish manages to be all things to all people: rich but light, almost brazenly luxe and yet practically a comfort food.

Address: Sorella, 148 Clapham Manor Street, London, SW4 6BXTelephone: +44 20 7720 4662Website: sorellarestaurant.co.uk. With 280 covers, plus space for another 60 on the outdoor terrace, it measures 835 square metres and is every bit as flamboyant as Gloria.

This is new territory for them. His authentic plates come thick and fast – spaghettini fritters are crisp while a chickpea panelle (also a fritter) is fluffy, and loaded with zingy salsa verde. Steve Parle is quietly and confidently making quite the name for himself as one of London’s most talented and creative chef-restaurateurs.


19 Ganton Street, London W1. Once one orders you presume that, surely, the food must be where Sette lets itself down. We have suggestions. Other classics include Americanos and Aperol Spritzes alongside a couple of wines and two London lagers on tap. Thankfully, there will be no tears after a second visit to Theo Randall in Park Lane.

The food is good. And so it is with Franco’s, which has occupied this unlikely spot by the corner of Jermyn Street and St James’s Street – behind White’s, basically – since a time when, for most English people, pasta was, as columnist Ian Jack has rather brilliantly put it, ‘a rumour’.

The spicy pork 'nduja ragu with mafalde pasta has just the right amount of kick and the wonderfully straightforward cacio and pepe is as smooth as can be. Many mains arrive with the bonfirey scent of the Josper grill. Address: Ciao Bella, 86-90 Lamb's Conduit St, Bloomsbury, London WC1N 3LZTelephone: +44 20 7242 4119Website: ciaobellarestaurant.co.uk. It's all so good you'll consider dropping by for breakfast the next day. It wouldn't be a proper Italian without Negronis on the menu.

Address: Polpo, 41 Beak Street, Soho, London W1F 9SBTelephone: +44 20 7734 4479Website: polpo.co.uk.

Fire up the appetite with a fiery Chilli Cracker (strawberry vodka and chilli) at the standalone, zinc-topped bar. For more Italian inspiration, see our pick of where to find the best pizza in London. TRIAL OFFER: 3 Issues for £1. Get them to share along with a basket of rosemary flatbread, served hot from the woodfire oven. Skip a sit-down dessert and instead pop across the street to Gelupo (the restaurant's gelato shop) for a scoop of the best hazelnut ice cream in all of London and eat it as you wander the thrumming streets of the West End.

Named after the Italian word to describe someone who makes pasta by hand, Stevie Parle's Soho spot is the place to come for exactly that.

Excellent pasta without the queues you’ll find at Padella.

So to start, order a portion of Filippo’s Big Balls (slow-cooked meatballs in San Marzano tomato sauce), a Black Mamba (cuttlefish stew in squid ink), 19-month-aged San Daniele ham, and the Smoked Stracciatella (the gorgeously gloopy heart of burrata) that is so good it doesn’t need a comedy name. For pudding, stick to the classics - the boozy tiramisu is one of the best we've had. The straight-up pasta is made each day in-house.

Address: Trullo, 300-302 Saint Paul's Road, Highbury East, London N1 2LHTelephone: +44 20 7226 2733Website: trullorestaurant.com, Bocconcino serves up hearty, classic Italian food in elegant but pared-back surroundings. TRY: The summer version of Padella’s famous Cacio e Pepe – the fabulous Pici with Marjoram, Golden Garlic and Lemon. To get things going, try the smoked eel with beetroot and horseradish and then opt for either the sea bream or wood roasted guinea fowl for secondi. As playful as the whole setup, the menu reads like a Carry On film script translated from English to Italian, and then back again, by someone who only speaks French. It tastes as good as it sounds.

Sibling restaurant Padella (regarded as one of the best restaurants in London) might have eclipsed Trullo when it comes to the hype, but this old-school Islington stalwart is still one of the best in town. The credentials here are impressive – there’s a Trullo alumnus chef and an ex-Barrafina general manager at the helm, and it’s evident that this duo know exactly what they’re doing. Popolo, Shoreditch. And at the corner of Brockwell Park, occupying a prime corner spot on Brixton Water Lane is Maremma, a through and through homage to this lesser-known area of the Silver Coast. There are bentwood chairs, white-linen-covered tables, net curtains, and a menu that changes daily. Address: Wolf, 110 Stoke Newington High Street, Stoke Newington London N16 7NYTelephone: +44 20 7254 4141Website: wolf-restaurant.co.uk. Having worked at the River Café and Petersham Nurseries, he is a pop-up pioneer (with the Moveable Kitchen), a writer (he is the author of three cookbooks and a former newspaper columnist), a TV presenter (with a series on Channel 4) and the head of a burgeoning restaurant group (Dock Kitchen, Rotorino, Craft, Sardine and Palatino).
But while the interiors are slick, the food on the menu is seriously hearty. Grab a seat near the pasta station, where hipster chefs in aprons roll, fold and pinch fresh pasta into all sorts of shapes.

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